Lisbon - European city on a budget

Lisbon has exploded in popularity in the past year or two, in no small part because it’s so wallet-friendly. September is the perfect month to go — temperatures are still beach-appropriate, but the summer crowds have thinned. The city is changing fast, but some things are a given: winding, cobbled streets in Alfama, trendy bars in Bairro Alto and a growing hipster scene of local designers and envelope-pushing food in up-and-coming Principe Real. You can live the good life here without breaking the bank.

Start with a rummage at the free Feira da Ladra flea market, held every Tuesday and Saturday morning in the Campo de Santa Clara. It’s thought to date back to the 12th century, and the CDs, bags and random paintings are worth a gander. From there, weave your way up to the Miradouro da Graca viewpoint on Santo Andre hill; take tram 28 (£2.60/2.89€) if you don’t want to walk. You’ll get sweeping views of the undulating city, from Sao Jorge castle to the waterfront.

Saturdays are free at the Museu Colecao Berardo, one of Portugal’s premier modern art museums, which holds works by Picasso, Duchamp and Warhol (£4.50/5€  on other days; museuberardo.pt).

A day on the beach doesn’t cost much, either. Ride the Lisbon-Cascais railway to the end of the line at Cascais, 35 minutes outside town (£4/4.45€ return), where pretty little Praia da Rainha is a sandy cove wedged between rocks. Also lovely is Tamariz beach, at Estoril, two stops earlier.

Eat The Michelin-starred chef Henrique Sa Pessoa has opened Tapisco, a down-to-earth tapas-style outpost. An octopus salad (£11.70/13€) and garlicky prawns (£14.40/16€) with grilled veg (£6.30/7€) should be enough for two (tapisco.pt).

Stay Every room has character — literally — at the Teatro Boutique Hotel, a B&B in Bairro Alto, where all 20 are named after different commedia dell’arte characters (doubles from £89/99€, B&B; teatrobbb.com).

Fly Ryanair has returns from Stansted to Lisbon from £53/59€. TAP Air Portugal flies from Manchester and Heathrow.